Easter 1916 Centenary

I happened to have a day off, just before St Patricks day, and with everyone else working, I decided to  check out the Proclaiming a republic : The 1916 Rising Exhibition which is was on in the Riding School at the National Museum of Ireland, Collins Barracks. The exhibition contains one of the largest displays of materials from the period, many of the objects have never been on public display before and others such as the Irish Republic flag which flew over the GPO, has been specially conserved. This exhibition explores the background to the Rising, events of Easter week itself through the everyday, intimate and personal belongings of the participants, scenes of the surrender of the rebels and also explore the stories of those who were imprisoned and interned. A particular eerie highlight are the last letters of those sentenced to death, which are displayed alongside their belongings that were in their cells in Kilmainham Gaol, within a sombre space. This 1916 exhibit is worth a visit. +Niamh did the Outdoor exhibition in St Stephen's Green telling the events of the rising that occurred there over 20 illustrated exhibition panels, the Saturday after. The funny thing was that evening, she was telling me how good the exhibition was, as I was about the one at Collins Barracks, which she ended up doing on her day off the following Tuesday. Paddy and myself did the outdoor one that afternoon too on route to visit his parents.

 

As the week processed, we convinced our parents to come up for Easter and to finally meet Paddy. They even surprised us by deciding to come up a night earlier then originally planned. As I was telling them about the Easter 1916 Lost Leaders March, that was taking place on Good Friday from Kilmainham Gaol to Arbor Hill arranged by Sinn Fein. After getting the introductions out of the way, when they arrived up Thursday evening, we were all soonenjoying ourselves, laughing away. On Good Friday morning, we got up early to make sure we got there in time and to soak up the atmosphere at the Gaol. By the time the March finally got underway, 45 mins late typical Irish time keeping, instead of starting at midday as advertised, a massive crowd and participants had gathered for the March. The Procession/Parade itself was very well done and bigger than my parents or myself thought it would be. I forgot how big the hill up to Arbor Hill was, it had nearly taken the wind out of us. We got lucky with our position for the ceremony and speeches itself. It was a pity that the March began late as half way through Gerry Adams Speech, I had to dash off to catch the LUAS to work after I had dropped my parents off in town, luckily I managed to just make it in time. We all agreed that despite how severe the March was it was worth the pain and effort.

 The following morning, I decided to treat Paddy to a visit to the +GuinnessStorehouse, as in all his years he'd never been despite being a Guinness drinker himself. I had brought early bird tickets online before we went, which proved very lucky as the queues for both cash and online tickets were massive. I got talking to one of the staff, who was asking people in the queue, if anyone had early bird tickets, as they were only valid until 11.30am and it was almost that, so we were able to skip the queue and go straight in. Although I had been there before, I enjoyed the visit nearly as much as Paddy and was intrigued how much they had changed the tour since my last visit there. I personally am not a Guinness drinker myself, but even I enjoyed the smooth pint up in the Gravity Bar and the staff were so friendly up there too. It ended up being a late night drinking and bonding which ended up being quite fun.

 

The following morning, Easter Sunday, Niamh and myself got up early and left for town, as everyone else was still in bed, for the Easter Sunday Commemoration Ceremony & Parade. As we didn't want to get quashed with the crowds, we managed to get a perfect spot up at Christchurch, just as Military Parade was beginning to arrive into area, before halting until the Flag Ceremony at Dublin Castle. In the end we both felt we got very lucky with our spot, as we able to see the parade perfectly and observed other events on the big screen located nearby. After Military parade, we headed for home and get our parents on the bus home to Clare, which was managed via a detour for them with Dublin Bus to the Red Cow to meet the coach for Ennis. It was a great weekend, even better with the parents coming to stay and visit.

Due to the LUAS strike, I had to get a bus anyways to work on the Bank Holiday Monday, I decided to go with Niamh into town early, to experience some of the RTÉ Reflecting the Rising on O'Connell St before, or that was the plan, before we decided on going to the Rotunda Hospital for their exhibition entitled Rotunda: Birth of a Nation which showcases the lives of five prominent medical women throughout Easter Week 1916, through a series of selected items from private collections, video footage and graphic and print wall hangings. Soon after leaving this exhibition, I left Niamh on O'Connell St to enjoy the events, while I sprinted away for the bus out to work. Niamh was telling me  that of the 4 areas with events on, that O Connell Street was by far the best. She was saying that Joe Duffy's Liveline 1916 special, Discovery Gospel choir, Simon Morgan and Lisa Lamb, and the Lost Boys were particular highlights. What made the trip into town more worth it especially with the wind and cold was meeting up with her friend Helena and having a good catch up.

 As I am usually off on Tuesdays, I decided to make the most of it by seeing some more of the exhibitions ongoing in town. I walked into town, so I could get into the Four Courts and check out the Bullets, Books & Barricades exhibition, that the Bar of Ireland and the Courts Centenary Commemoration Committee produced  to explore the background to the Easter Rising, The battle of the Four Courts area ranging from Church Street, North King Street, Stoneybatter and Smithfield and occupation of the Four Courts itself and the aftermath and executions are also included with the consideration of the Rising's legacy. Trying to find the open entrance to Round Hall was proving difficult, after getting lost yet again, I asked someone for the third time, where it was and they then realised that as the judges were on holidays for Easter, the main entrance on the quays was closed until Friday. So after getting through security, and finding the Round Hall, the long way around through the Four Courts itself, I was at the exhibit. I think due to the fact it being a Tuesday after Easter and the main entrance closed I had the whole exhibit to myself which was quiet, peaceful and well done. A building I wanted to see the inside for years and was finally open to the public is the Custom House which was open for the 2 weeks of Easter. The Custom House, is the architectural masterpiece of James Gandon and the exhibition inside outlines the history of the building and describes the events in the building during Easter week and considers the history of the building and its occupants from 1916 until 1921 when the building was completely destroyed by fire during the War of the Independence. Once I was finished with the exhibition, I managed to time it perfectly to witness, the President of Ireland, Michael D Higgins departing from Liberty Hall, who was there for the Commemoration event for the Irish Citizen Army and James Connolly.

 

To round off my day of 1916 commemorative exhibitions, I finished with the RCSI's exhibition entitled Surgeons and Insurgents - RCSI and the Easter Rising which tell the story of the rising through the human stories of key figures associated with the college and the Easter Rising. The Exhibition is free and open to the public weekdays. The building is significant as it's  the only building directly involved in the Rising that stands as it did in 1916, with all others being rebuilt or demolished. The exhibition consists of personal items from figures such as Countess Markievicz to Margaret Skinnider who were with the garrison of the Irish Citizen Army and housed within the college and describes the lives of key figures from both sides.

To try something different one day after work, Paddy and myself went to the Open Gate Brewery at Guinness on the following Thursday evening, which cost 6€ and included a tasting board consisting 4 different exclusive beers, each with various degrees of success. We both agreed the Dubliner Wheat was the one, we both liked most, so much so we ordered a pint each, costing 5€. 

Later in April, on my day off, I finally got the opportunity and chance to check out the renovated old courthouse at the Kilmainham Gaol, which pretty cool to see and observe the historical building mostly untouched from its hay day, with it's original jury balcony and register of convicts sentenced which is opened to page of Constance Markievicz sentence. 

Late Wednesday night, +Paddy turns to me and says do you want to go to the +WWE Live event at +3Arena Dublin the following night, if there was tickets still available. I said sure, as this is a big part of you, I'm gonna show an interest and try get involved and get into it. Tickets bought, I arranged to get 2 passes into the Bar Neon to chill in before the event. Once the event got underway, I must admit I got into it more than I thought I would. The atmosphere from the crowd for the wrestlers entrance and during the fights was contagious. The fight between +Roman Reigns and +WWESheamus BrogueKick  really got everyone cheering and shouting. It was the perfect way to finish the event, which had been such a fun night, although it was my first WWE live event doubt it will be my last.

The following weekend was my weekend off, Niamh and myself decided to head into town and soak up the atmosphere. On the Saturday on our way to Henry Street shopping, we noticed the Easter Rising Commemorative speech outside the GPO which was organised by Sinn Fein. There wasn't much else on that day but on the Sunday, their was a Reclaim 1916 Event. The event was organised by Reclaim the Vision of 1916 initiative, as a way for the people by the people event, celebrating the 1916 Rising and urging all towards its vision of a republic of equality. We had arrived to O' Connell Street early, and got a very good position for the open air event just in front of the Spire and near to the GPO. As we arrived so early, we managed to witness the musicians have their soundcheck before the event. The event commenced by 4 uilleann pipers and 4 harpists from our 4 provinces. Adrian Dunbar was the MC for the event, which had Fionnula Flanagan give several readings, and Stephen Murphy recite his own poem 'Was It For This?' which had everyone captivated and when he finished the thousands in the crowd, cheered and shouted which was totally justified as it was such an emotional recital.

Music was provided by singers Don Baker, Francis Black and Damien Dempsey and musician Donal Lunny. The event concluded with the national anthem. Later that night, while online, I came across that the nearby St James's Graveyard was opening for a special blessing of a grave, first time that this now closed graveyard will be open in over 25 years.

 The following morning, I luckily enough remembered to cross the road to the church, to wait for the Mass to finish before the procession over to the graveyard. The priest decided to wait until 11 am before heading over, which gave me enough time to check out 1916 exhibition - Rising in the Union within Parochial Hall next door to the church. At 11 am, a good crowd crossed the road towards the graveyard, is located behind the new whiskey distillery which is still a building site, so we all had to be careful making our ways towards the grave of Lieut George Fullerton who had been killed during the easter rising. After the blessing of the grave by the priest, a veteran of the armed forces played our national anthem at the grave side using a bag pipes.

Right Place Right Time

After the holiday to Lanzarote, I decided it was about time to check off the remaining churches that I wanted to see and had eluded me so far, around the city. In particular the insides of the Pepper Canister church, St Paul's Smithfield which is the church Eamon de Valera got married in and  University church near St Stephen Green which I didn't know much about before hand. It was during lent when I was able to visit the church so waited until after it's lunch time service to have a proper look around. The church really was quite an unexpected gem with its beautiful wall decorations and elaborate sanctuary and nave.

 

At the end of February, on one of my usual random walks checking out historical buildings and monuments, I happened to stumble onto the remains of the Isolde's Tower, a 13th century medieval tower that was part of the old city walls, however the remains are obstructed from view, as the remains have been incorporated into an apartment complex. To finish of the month, I was lucky enough to get tickets during presale for Ed Sheeran concert in July, worth getting up a tad earlier before work to get them. However my crowning moment came later that night when I made my first ever dairy free spelt bread, which to my relief and culinary delight turned out perfectly.

After a hectic start to March, I decided on my day off for once to do some retail therapy and enjoy myself and take a break from my usual historical wanderings for a week. I purchased a Tayto Sandwich that I got from the Tayto popup shop, which was set up for a few weeks and proceeds raised were donated to the Simon Community, so that was my snack sorted for later. On my way home, I tried a different coffee place for a change called Kaph and attempted my first almond mocha which I was pleasantly surprised by.

As soon as the next day, I was back to my old ways of exploring museums and historical buildings, I realised that morning, I hadn't been to the IMMA and the Royal Hospital Kilmainham grounds since I last lived in Kilmainham years previously. Luckily enough the day I was there, which is only about a 10/15 mins walk from our apartment, it was sunny and peaceful. I was able to enjoy the walk around the grounds and gardens before I checked out the new OPW exhibit called the Old Man's House which tells the history of the Royal Hospital. On leaving I notice a poster for a free guided tour of Bully's Acre for later in the month. Luckily I emailed the guide whilst having coffee and trying another almond infused food item, gluten free chocolate brownie, in the museum coffee shop, as there wasn't many places left.

As both Niamh and Myself were off on St Patrick's Day, we said we head in for the parade and we got a nice viewing spot on Dame Street. The theme of the parade this year was celebrating the present and the Grand Marshal was Brendan O Carroll, famed for Mrs Brown Boys. Although the parade started a tad late, it was so worth the wait, especially the floats from Spraoi being a particular highlights for  both of us. We were both ravenous ,so went to Bakehouse which just over the Ha'penny Bridge, from which we saw the crowds trying to get into Temple Bar. We both were never so delighted to be no where near the place.  

 After the food, we decided to have a quiet drink on the route home, it was a lot more relaxed which was nice and seeing the buildings going green for the day, on the walk home was nice.

As the weather was so nice on the Thursday after St Patrick's Day, I decided to make a theme for my walk and explore old military graveyards and buildings, beginning with old British military cemetery at Grangegorman, a place I'd been trying to visit for years. The graveyard is maintained by the OPW, who do a fantastic job with the place and during my visit the groundskeeper was so helpful with information and answering my questions. The Cemetery is place worth visiting. After exiting here, I continued on towars Arbor Hill, the final resting place of 14 of the executed leaders of the 1916 Easter Rising.

To round off my military filled themed day, I finished it with a visit to Collins barracks, a former military barracks now a national museum with exhibitions on various military events and experiences throughout the years including a temporary one called Recovered Voices, describing the stories of the Irish at War 1914-15. As I was leaving the museum and passing through Clarke Square, I stopped and watched a reenactment of drills by soldiers before they left for the War during 1914-18. On my way out, I was able to get a lovely view of Croppies Acre, is a memorial to the rebels or Croppys boys of the 1798 rebellion. As you can imagine I was wrecked after such a day. 

Before I knew it, it was the end of March and time for that free tour of Bully's Acre. Although it was a rainy type Sunday day, there was a great turn out for the tour. Bully's Acre is the oldest cemetery in Dublin and our guide Paul who is the resident OPW historian in the RHK. The cemetery is located within the grounds of the RHK, the former retirement home for soliders who served in the British army. The tour consisted of visiting various different graveyards, beginning with plot for soldiers and then Bully's Acre itself which was a large public area used as a burial ground right up till the Cholera epidemic when Bully's Acre was closed down. The tour concluded with the Officer's Cemetery. Our guide along the way gave us information and interesting stories about the place. The total area comprises of 3.7 acres and is hidden behind locked gates and high walls within the ground of RHK. Despite the weather, the tour was quite interesting and our tour guide Paul was funny and made the whole experience quite enjoyable. If ye get the chance try and do the tour. 

Going on the advice of a mate, on my next day I decided to strolled and check out the new DIT campus out at Grangegorman, which was cool especially how they converted the old church there into a new lecture hall. Easter Sunday as we both we off work, we enjoyed our Easter eggs watching movies, only way the day should be spent. That night we booked our tickets for the Pieta Darkness into Light 5 km walk at the start of May. As the sun was out on my next day off, I decided to do a practice of the 5 km circuit in the Phoenix Park, as I was finishing near the Papal Cross it was 17 degrees and there was a herd of cute deer all around the place.

 

Later that week on Saturday, Niamh, her friend Clodagh and myself were getting excited on the Luas towards the +3Arena Dublin to see +Olly Murs. Once we all were inside, we made our way into the Neon Bar that Niamh got passes for online and we got a booth upstairs in the bar. While we were enjoying ourselves there, a psychological Magician called Shane Black performed a few tricks for our booth. He had given Niamh something to hold and had thought nothing more about it. Then at the end, he said to me think of a name and see if he could guess it which he did and opened the wallet that Niamh had been holding and the name was on a card in it. We all had a laugh over it and definitely was a great way to start the night. Soon after that, we made our way out to our seats. Olly Murs got the whole audience singing and dancing and all had a great night. After the concert  I made the short walk to Ballsbridge where work was having a party to celebrate 10 years. Was a great way to finish the night even if it was struggle to get up at 7 am for work. 

New Beginnings

With the excitement of Italy behind us, we came home to the joys of accommodation hunting which was proving difficult separately and +Niamh starting her new college course in Healthcare Informatics. When we started to look for a place together, although still hard was more promising. We still had time to enjoy ourselves, with a reception at Harvey Nichols and cinema tickets to see Before I Go To Sleep in Dundrum. My weekend off, was a quiet affair, just spent watching Clare U21 hurlers winning 3 in a row All Ireland titles, followed by a day spent at the zoo, as Niamh put it baby hunting, which was more fun than I thought it was gonna be.

 

After a few weeks with no luck, it all came together on Wednesday the 17th, when despite Niamh ringing a particular estate agent that morning with no luck, I chanced my arm ringing after work at 3. I got a call back just before 4, for a viewing 30 mins later, which couldn't have suited us any better. We nearly fell in love with the apartment as soon as we entered it. I couldn't have ran any quicker to the ATM and back with the holding deposit. On Friday lunchtime, after spending the previous two days packing up my life, we signed our lease for our place and got the keys, which was a great relief after a stressful few weeks. As I had time to kill after unpacking, I decided to make most of culture night, and finally go see the Freemasons buildings on Moleworth Street, a building which has eluded me over the years as their open days never suited me until now. Despite getting totally soaked to the bone, once inside, from the onset it didn't disappoint. Over the 3 levels, the history of the Grand Masonic Lodge was everywhere to see and the Freemasons themselves were on hand to answer any questions. I ended up spending longer here, then I had initially planned. On the route home, as Niamh had ordered thai takeaway, I made a slight detour into the city hall exhibition. An exhibition I was not willing previously to pay into, once inside my reservations were correct, as this exhibition is not worth any price of admission. 

Our parents made the journey up that evening for the weekend, which was nice that the whole moving in was quite the family affair. Whilst I was working all day Saturday, which itself was an ordeal with no delivery and the never ending queues. At least the parents and Niamh had a more enjoyable day, spending it at the zoo at the request of our mother, who not been there in 20 years. However it was poor Niamh's second trip in less than a week. After their eventful trip to the zoo, they strolled from the Phoenix Park towards Collins Barracks museum, which neither of our parents had been to before. Just before exiting the park, Niamh attempted to give 2 strangers directions and somehow they ended up inside the new criminal courts. By Saturday night, both Niamh and myself had moved out of our old places and unpacked and moved into our new one.
                            

After a few technical issues with our UPC order, over the weekend, through social media on Monday and early Tuesday morning, I received the horizon box and got everything sorted, now the place really feels like home. On Friday, our mother decided to visit for the weekend again, which was starting to turn into a habit, arriving just after 11.30pm. The following day, we got up and took her by her request on a hop on hop off tour, which I managed to get on Living Social for 7 euro each for all 3 of us. My mother and myself meet Niamh outside the Little Museum on St Stephen Green, who came after college that morning. The ticket to the museum was included as part of the hop on hop off tour one. Our mother really enjoyed the guided tour of this particular museum, we followed this by continuing on the bus tour, followed by the Docklands one, which Niamh and me hadn't done previously and was a pleasant surprise. Disembarking at the Grand Canal, we strolled over to George's Dock, where Oktoberfest was on. The crowds and the atmosphere was electric and the first time I've drank a Stein glass of beer. This was a nice way to finish a week off work and settling into the new place.

 Things were definitely on the way up, as on October 4th, it was time finally to see +Ed Sheeran in the +3Arena Dublin. Im not sure who was more excited myself or Niamh, and this after we both saw him, the May Bank Holiday Monday in +Vicar Street. Ed really knew how to get the crowd going, which made the whole experience electric. Just like the intimate gig at Vicar street, we left the gig singing all the way home. 

Getting used to our surroundings, we noticed the historical structures, churches and buildings nearby on James and Thomas St, such as Guinness' St James' Gate of course, St Patrick's Smock Tower, St Catherine Church site of Robert Emmet execution and John's Lane Church where there a relic of St. Nicholas and the twelve statues in the niches on the tower are the work of James Pearse, father of Padraig Pearse.